Sunday, 9 September 2012

Lakes

Sorry it's been a while since i have posted but i have been busy (lazy more like!). Anyway, last weekend was spent in the Southern Lakes. We thought this was the best location looking at the weather and our chosen crag was the well known Gimmer, Langdale. This crag is famous for it's fast drying routes and sunny aspect but it was cold, wet and bloody freezing!!
We trudged up to the crag, knocking 3 hours off my previous PB! (was sick last time!). Eastern Hammer had been high on my wishlist but all the cracks were seeping and it soon became apparent that we were going to have to lower our sights. We moved round to the right hand side of the crag to get out of the worst of the wind and decided to climb the 'Classic Rock' route Bracket and Slab. We did the direct start, which although harder, was much cleaner than the original. Although it was absolutely freezing, we did the route in 6 enjoyable pitches. 
Strangely we were the only climbers on Gimmer that day!! Where are all the climbers??


pitch 2

chilly!




well deserved bar meal!




BBC Documentary in Glen Nevis


I was excited to get an invite to this project which seen us all gather together in a very wet and midgy Glen Nevis last Wednesday. 
My part was to lead a trad route which was the classic Resurrection VS 4c (3 stars!) on Styx buttress. Due to considerable faffing by the BBC, i ended up climbing in near darkness in midgy hell but at least it gave the route time to dry out from the morning rain.

Hollywood here i come!!   Photos to follow and the program is Countryfile and i will post a link when it is screened.



Cold Rage in a Heatwave!


After last weeks baltic conditions, we were rewarded for our keeness by a scorching day in the Pass of Ballater. Having been to this excellent location a few years ago, i was apprehensive walking up the path as i knew it was not a good type of rock to be climbing on in these hot, sweaty conditions.

With this in mind, we found the only wall in the shade and geared up. My chosen route was Cold Rage E4 6A. The crux was low down and i nervously spent 20 minutes arranging protection and checking out the moves which looked tricky! Eventually, i couldn't put it off any longer and committed to the crux which was well hard! I was rewarded which a good rest and really enjoyed the rest of the route.
Pleased with my ascent we headed round to the front face and did an E2 (Alcoholics Anonymous) and an E3 (Larup Head) . These were both really good routes and luckily the blazing sunshine didn't effect us too much. We finished off doing a route called Doctor Dipso E4 6A, with a cool crux move! 

crux done, now i can relax!




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